Button-hole-stitching machine



l(No Model.) s sheets-sheet 2.

J. W. LUPKIN.

BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

(NoModel.) I heetzs-Sheet` 3. J. W. LUFKIN.

BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

No. 451,498. l Patented May 5, 1891.

E@ may a? 1 8 Sheets Sheet 4.

(No Model.)

J. W. LUFKIN. BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

No. 451,498. Patented May 5,1891.

(No Model.) s sneetsheet 5.

J.. W. LUFK'IN..

BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE. No. 451,498. N Patented May 5,1891.

(No Model.)

- 8 Sheets-Sheet 6. J. W. LUFKIN. BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.'

Patented MayA 5, 1891.

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BUTTON HO IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII Patented LLLLLLLLL l.

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' J. W. LUPKIN.

BUTTON HOLE STITGHING MACHINE.

No. 451,498. Patented May 5,189.1.

Erice.

JOI-1N WT. LUFKIN, OF VINCHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUTTON-HOLE-STITCHING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N0. 451,498, dated May 5,1891.

Application filed April 28, 1890. Serial No. 349,809. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN XV. LUFKIN, of Winchester, in the county ofMiddlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and usefulImprovement in Button -Hole- Stitching Machines, which will, inconnection with the accompanying drawings, be hereinafter fullydescribed, and speci [ically defined in the appended claims.

My invention relates to that class of button-hole-stitching machineswhich automatically cuts the button-holes, overseams the edges thereof,has a traveling cloth-clamp which properly feeds vand presents the edgeof the button-hole slit to the action of the overstitching mechanism,and automatically stops when the finishing of a button-hole is therebycompleted; and the invention consists inthe novel devices employed toeffect said several operations in the making of button-holes bymachinery, which will, in connection with the accompanying drawings, behereinafter fully described, and specitically pointed out in theappended claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents in perspective abntton-hole-sewing machine embodying my invention, the parts containedin the view being in the positions they occupy when theiirstoperationthe cutt-ing of the button-hole-is being performed. Fig. 2is a vertical transverse section, enlarged, taken as on line 0c o3, Fig.1, the parts being in the same position and viewed from the front ofsaid section-line. Fig. 3 is a top plan View of the clamp shown inFig. 1. Fig. 4 is a vertical transverse section of the same, taken as online y y, Fig. 3, and as viewed from the left of saidline. Fig. 5 is anunder side view in perspective of the leve-r employed to force the upperand under jaws of the clamp together. Fig.'6 is a like view of the leverand its cam employed to force said jaws apart or spread them laterally.Fig. 7 is an under side view of the machine in perspective, the part-sshown being in their respective positions, as when the button-hole isbeing cut, andaportion of thebed of the machine is shown as broken awayto disclose parts of the feeding mechanism which would otherwise behidden. Fig. S represents in perspective the outline only of the bed andarm of the machine in dotted lines, H

while the principal interior parts constituting the cutting, stitching,and stopping devices, and contained partly in the upper portion of themachine and partly belo'w the bed, are clearly shown in their properrelations to each other. Fig. 9 is afi-ont end elevation oi' the head otthe machine with the face-plate removed disclosing the devices throughwhich the upper needle and looper are operated. Fig. 10 is a view inperspective of the same as detached from the frame of the head.V Fig. 11is a detached under side plan view of the lever-and-pawl mechanismthrough which the cutting mechanism is set in motion and automaticallystopped independently ot' the stitchingmechanism. Fig. l2 is a verticallongitudinal section taken as on line z z, Fig. 11, and as viewed fromabove said line. Fig. 13 is a view of the inner and fixed supportingpawlof the worm-shaft detached. Fig. 14E is a view of the Outer and movablelifting-pawl of the worm-shaft detached. Fig. 15 is a top view of thework-plate and the attachments upon which the traveling cloth-clamp ismoved or fed and by which it is guided. Fig. 16 is a top view or plan ofthe grooved feed-Wheel and l its attachments which occupy a recess inthe bed of the machine beneath the work-plate. Fig. 17 is a like view ofthe feed-wheel, omitting the grooves and attachments on its upper side,and showing in dotted lines the grooves and attachments on its underside. Fig. 18 is a vertical section taken as on line w w, Fig. 10, andviewed from the front of said line. Fig. 19 is a rear view inperspective of portions of the automatic stopping and startingmechanism, and showing the swivel-bearing in which the worm-shaft of thecutting mechanism is supported. Fig. 2O is a horizontal section throughthe projecting end ot the upper shaft and its driving-pulley, taken ason line o in Fig. 19, and as seen from above said line. Figs. 21` 22,23,21, and 25 represent the different relative positions of the needles,looper, and loops of thread in the various successive stages in theformation of the overedge-stitch. Fig. 26 is a diagram showing thepeculiar form ot' buttonhole produced by the stitching and feedingmechanism and the strong fastening of the IDO inner end of thebutton-hole by the intersection and crossing of the com'erging curvedlines of stitching at that point.

As the drawings represent many features which are common to machines ofthis class, l will refer to such features in detail only when it becomesnecessary to make clear my description of the novelties containedtherein.

The cutting operation being the first in the order of practicaloperations of the machine, I will irst describe the devices connectedtherewith and their mode of operation, referring to Figs. 1, 2, 7, 8, 9,l1, 12, 13, and 14. A Vertical bar A is arranged to move up and down inbearings in the head of the machine and carries at its lower end a brassor composition cutterblock A. This bar A is moved up and down by meansof the horizontal arm of a strong lever A2, pivoted in the overhangingarm of the machine, as shown. A vertical arm of this lever extends fromits pivoted point downward through an opening in the bed of the machine,and there connects by means of a ball-and-socket joint (sce Fig. 12)with an arm A3, mounted upon the eccentric hub of a worm-gear A1, whichgear turns upon a fixed vertical stud A5. There is also upon theopposite and lower side of said gear a cam A11, (see Fig. 7,) whichturns therewith upon the stud, and into the groove of which one end of acutter-lever A7 operates. This lever is pivoted in a bracket A8, securedtothe underside of the machine-bed, as shown, and extends forward fromits fnlcrum to a position in the vertical plane of the bar A, where itturns upward and carries in its npturned end a cutter A11, as clearlyshown in Fig. 8. hen the cutting mechanism is operated, the block A andcutter A1 are caused to approach each other and come into contactthrough the central opening in the bed of the machine and work-plate, asshown in Fig. 2. A shaft A10, having a drivingwheel upon its outer endand a worm A11 on its inner end, is supported in a swivel-bearing A12,(see Fig. 19,) which affords the worm suieient lateral movement toenable it to be thrown into and out of working contact with gear A1. Tobring this worm into operative connection with its gear, a hlever A13 isemployed, which extends outward through a slot in the front side of themachine, as shown in Fig. 7, at which end it is conveniently manipulatedby t-he operator. This leveris pivoted to the bed of the machine bymeans of a screw-stud A11, and has a .short arm A15, to which is pivoteda pawl A11'. A rockin g block A11, having a taper point which centers inthe end of the worin-shaft, as shown in Figs. 7, 1l, and 12,is alsopivoted upon stud A11. This block carries a pin A11, which projectsupward from the block, and also a horizontal bar A19, in which a pin A20is secured, which extends laterally to the edge of the machinebed. Thislast-named pin supports a spiral spring A21, which is compressed betweenbar A19 and the downward-projecting edge of the machine-bed. Another pinA211, secured in the bed of the machine at right angles to pin A20,supports a wire spring coiled around it, one end of which pressesagainst the leverpawl A1G and forces its free end toward the worm-gear.This pawl is formed with a shoulder A21, which enga-ges pin A1S in blockA17 when the lever A13 is manipulated to cause the worm to engage theworm-gear. A pawl A21, similar in construction to thelast-named pawl, ispivoted in a fixed position to the bed of the machine and has its freeend forced toward the worm-gear by a similar spring, and both pawls whenat rest bear upon pin 1S, and a pin A2'1projccts downward from themachine-bed, against which rests at the same time the end of the blockA19, which supports the i n ner end of the wormshaft A111. An angleleverA21 (clearly shown in Fig. 7) is pivoted to a bracket on the under sideof the machine, one arm of said lever being connected by a aball-and-socket joint with the forward end of lever A1, while the otherarm projects upward through a slot in the machine-bed and work-platewhere it receives into its slotted end an overhan gi n g portion of-thecloth-clam p, as clearly shown in Fig. 2. It is necessary to draw theclamp back away from the stitching devices in order to bring thematerial to be cut into proper position between the eutter-block andcutter, and a recess in the feed-wheel and a slot in the bed andworkplate permit the clamp to be so drawn out of the groove and thefeed-wheel and to be replaced therein automatically, and the function ofthis lever A21' is to draw the clamp back into the position shown duringthe time the cutter and block are approaching each other, and, aftertheir cutting contact in such position, to move the clamp forward againwhile the cutter and block are traveling away from each other and carrythe button-hole thus cut into the proper relation to the stitchingmechanism, which will be hereinafter described. At the commencement ofthis automatic cutting operation the worm A11 is out of contact with thegear A'1 and the wormshaft A111 is revolvingidly, and the other parts ofthe machine are at the same time rendered inoperative by means whichwill be described. 'lhe goods in which the button-hole is to be cuthaving been placed properly in the clamp, the operator next takes holdof the handle of lever A1:1 and moves it to the left into the positionshown in Fig. 7. This movement rocks the lever on its fulcrnm A111, andthereby forces the pawl A1, attached to its short arm, into contact withpin A1S in block A11, and causes the block to move with it together withthe worm A11, with which it is engaged through its tapered pointcentered in the end of the worm-shaf t, and thus carries the worm intoworking contact with gear A1. The worm is thus connected with the gearagainst the resistance of spring A21, and to prevent the reaction of thespring throwing it out of gear when the operator releases the IIO leverA12 the second pawl A21 is employed. When the block is moved as justdescribed, its pin A111 is thereby carried into position to be locked bythe shoulder on pawl A21, which pawl, being pivoted to the bed of themachine, effectively resists the reaction of spring A21, after the leverA13 and its movable paWl A16 are released by the operator. Theengagement of the worm and gear thus brought together sets the gear inmotion together with its cam AG and eccentric arm A2. The eccentric armrocks the lever A2 on its pivot and thereby causes it to force downwardthe bar A, with its block A', and at the same time cam A6 is rockinglever A7 on its fulcrum, and thereby causing the cut-ter A9 to move uptoward block A. Thus the cutter and block are brought together with therequisite force to cut the button-hole in the material held in theclamp, and while the cutter and block are thus being made to approacheach other the clamp is drawn back upon thework-plate into the properposition by means of the lever A26, actuated by lever A7, as the lattermoves its cutter upward, all the parts being adj usted to perform theirrespective functions in proper time relatively to each other. Theoperations just described and the return of the parts to theirrespective starting-points are completed by one revolution of thewormgear A1, and as this single revolution is being completed aprojection A27 on the back of the eccentric arm A2 comes in contact withthe pawls A111 and A21 and forces them back as it wipes against and bythem, thereby releasing' the block-pin A18 from their notches orshoulder and allowing the reaction of spring A21 to rock the block onits stud and thus throw the Worm out of gear, when the movements of thecutting mechanism instantly cease. Vhen the movements of the cuttingdevices thus cease, the stitching mechanism is instantly set in motionby automatic devices, which I will now describe.

Upon the rear end of the upper shaft B, which extends through theoverhanging arm of the machine, there is secured a wheel B, as shown inFigs. S, 19, and 20. This wheel B is recessed upon one side, as shown inFig. 20, and into said recess a friction-pulley B2, which is looselymounted upon the end of the shaft, plays in a well-known manner, andwhen forced into the recess drives wheel B by frictional contacttherewith, the pulley B2 being driven by means of a belt connected witha drivin g-pulley BS on the lower shaft, as shown in Fig. 19. There isalso secured to shaft B, adjacent to the inner side of wheel B', aclutch B1. (Shown clearly in Fig. 8.) Below the upper shaft a shortshaft B5 extends outward from the arm of the machine, and is arranged torock in its bearing upon said arm. To this short shaft is secured alocking arm or lever B6, which extends upward and is formed and arrangedto interlock with clutch B1, as shown in Figs. 8 and 19, when forcedinto contact with the clutch by spring B1. Near the outer end of theshaft Bis secured thereon another upward-extending arm B8, which iswedgeshaped at its upper end, as shown in Figs. 19 and 20, this WedgeB11 being` arranged to act against a rounded projection B10 on pulleyB2. The arms B1i and BS rock simultaneously with shaft B5, and are soarranged thereon relatively to each other that when arm B6 isinterlocked with clutch B1, arm BS at its thinner edge will be butslightly iu contact with the friction-pulley. Consequently said pulleywill revolve loosely upon its shaft While the latter is thus firmlylocked `against rotation; but when shaft B5 is rocked by means to bedescribed so as to release clutch B1 from lever B6, then by the samemovement which so releases the clutch arm BS will be forced intocontact'with projection B10, and thereby pulley B2 will be pressed intofrictional contact with the walls of the recess in wheel B and cause thewheel vto revolve, thus communieating motion to shaft B and all partsactuated'thereby. During the operation of the cutting mechanism whichhas been described the upper shaft is locked, as stated; but as thelever A2, which operates the cutter-block, returns to its idle positionan angular arm B11, projecting therefrom, as shown in Fig. 8, pressesdown upon the top of a lever B12, which is pivoted to a short armsecured to shaft B5, and thereby rocks said shaftso as to disengagelever BG from clutch B1, thereby releasing the upper shaft, whichactuates' the stitching mechanism, and at the same time forces thefriction-pulley B2 into contact with wheel B through the arm or leverBS, thus starting the stitching and feeding devices into activityimmediately upon the completion of the cutting operation and thereturning ofthe clamp with its button-hole thus cut into its properposition on the work-plate to be acted upon by the feeding and stitchingmechanism. As soon as the button-hole is completely stitch ed around, aswill be hereinafter described, the stitching mechanism is againautomatically and instantaneously locked, as follows: A lever B13 (shownin Fig. '7) is pivoted to the under side of the machine at B11. The rearend of this lever is curved and rests against the lower end of leverB12, which projects down through an opening in the machinebed, as shownin Figs. 7 and S. 'lhe forward end of lever B12 is also curved, and isattached to a block which projects therefrom up through the bed, and towhich a slide B15 under the work-plate, as shown in Fig. 1G, is secured.As the clamp is turned around in completing the stitching of thebutton-hole, its pin, by which it is guided and actuated just before itreaches the position .in the notch in said slide in which it is shown inFig. 1G, strikes the inner edge B16 of said slide and forces the slidesuddenly backward, thereby rocking lever B12 and through it also rockinglever B12, so as to withdraw and release the upper end of the latterlever from the downward pressure of arm B11, thus re- IOO IIO

leasing the rock-shaft B5 and its attaclnnents, when, by theinstantaneous action of spring BT, the clutch devices are interlockedagain, and the rotation of shaft 13 and the movement of all partsactuated thereby is suddenly arrested and firmly held inoperative, andat the same time that the clamp-pin engages the edge B1G of the slide,and thereby, as described, renders the clutch mechanism operative tostop the feed and stitching devices, the overhanging arm D16 of theclamp moves into the transversely-slotted end of lever A2, whichprojects up through a slot in the work-plate, and to prevent themomentum of the clamp from carrying this arm through the open slot andbeyond the lever a pivoted latch D17 is employed, which is moved by thebase of the clamp into the position shown in Fig. l and closes one sideof the slot in advance of the arrival of the clamp-arm therein; andafter the clamp is drawn back, as shown, carrying the end of thestop-latch D1T in contact with lever A2 back with it, at its nextforward movement it leaves the lever D1T behind in the position shown,where it remains until the clan'lp-base cornes around again into contactwith its opposite end,when it is again forced forward and closes theslot in lever A2, as before, thus stopping the clamp-arm D16 frompassing through the slot. The clamp being drawn back again into theposition shown, the machine is now in order to commence another cuttingoperation by throwing the worm A into gear, as has been described, whenthe button-hole will be automatically cut and stitched and the machinestopped again, as before described.

I will now describe the devices employed by me for stitching thebutton-hole.

The rotary shaft B, as shown in Figs. 7 and S, operates an eccentric armC, which extends downward through the bed of the machine and connectswith a short arm C', secured to a rock-sha-ft C2. Upon the frontend ofshaft E is a disk C3, to which is eccentrically pivoted one end of alink C4, while the other end of the link is pivotally attached to anadjustable sleeve C3, secured to the needle-bar CG. Through theseconnecting devices the needle-bar is caused to reciprocateverticallywhen shaft B is rotated. The needle-bar carries the usual eyepointedperforatingneedle C', which carries its thread through the4 materialnear the edge of the button-hole slit. Below the bed upon shaft C2 anarm Us is secured, which has attached to it a needleholder C, as clearlyshown in Fig. rlhis holder carries a curved non-perforati n needle C10,which carries a thread, as shown in Figs. 2l to 25. The non-perforatingneedle passes up through the usual central opening in the bed of themachine, as shown in Figs. 2 and 7, and carries its thread through thebuttonhole slit and to a height sufficiently above the same to permitthe looper to take its thread, as will be described. The axis of shaftC2 lies in a plane oblique both to a vertical and horizontal planethrough the axis of rotary shaft B, and consequently the path ofthenon-perforating needle C1" is oblique tothe path of the perforatingneele C7, and thereby carries its thread readily through the looppresented by needle C7, as illustrated in Figs. 2l and 22. When theupper needle CT has descended through the material to its lowest pointand started back, ithas slackened its thread and thrown out a loop. Inthis position it rests for an instant, while needle CO enters the loopand carries its thread up through the same and through and abovethebutton-hole slit, crossing the path of needle Cl after passing upthrough said slit.

In the illustrative diagrams Figs. 2l to 25, inclusive, the severalstages of the stitchformation, or interlacing of the upper and underthreads, are shown, C representing the edge of a button-hole upon whichthe overseaming is being performed. Then the under thread has, by themeans and in the manner described, been carried up throughaloop oftheupper thread and through and above the button-hole slit, another devicecomes into play. Surrounding the needle-bar C is a sleeve C12, which issupported in the head of the machine, so as to turn freely about theneedle-bar. The lower end of the sleeve carries a looper C13, whichmoves cccentrically about the upper needle, the latter being secured inthe needle-bar at one side of its center as shown. To the upperend ofthe looper sleeve is attached an arm C1,(see Fig. 10,) to which ispivoted a link C15, which at one end is connected by a ball-and-soeketjoint to the side of a slotted swinging arm C1, which is pivoted at itsupper end to the back side ofthe head of the machine, as shown in Fig.8. The screw-stud which secures theneedle-bar lilik Cl to the disk C3passes through the slot in swinging arm or bar C1G and serves as themeans for actuating said bar when the disk is revolved and through theconnections described imparts timely movements to the looper Cl. Eachtime that the swinging arm C1 is caused to move across the face of thedisk C* by the turning of the latter thelooper C is semi-rotated aboutneedle C7, and this occurs during about a quarter-turn of the disk fromthe position shown in Fig. 10, and while the needle is up, or nearly so,to its highest position, and again when the needle is down to its lowestposition, when the looper retraces it l'lrstsemi-rotative movement. 'lheintermediate quarter-turns of the disk do not practically move thelooper-sleeve by reason of the peculiar jointed connections whichaccommodate themselves readily to such movements of the disk withoutturning the sleeve. \Vhen the upper and under needles and looper are inthe respective positions shown in Fig. 22, the upper needle havingdescended through the goods and left the loop of its thread around theunder needle, and the latter needle having ascended through thebutton-hole slit and is holding its thread above IIO the work, then theactuating devices ot the upper needle and looper are in the positionsshown in Figs. 9 and 10k During the next quarter-turn of the disk theupper needle will remain at rest while the swing of arm C1, caused bysuch quarter-turn of the disk, will cause a rapid semi-rotation of thelooper, which in its movement will seize the thread Y of the underneedle and carry a loop thereof over the edge of the button-hole andspread it in the path of the upper needle, so that at the next descentof the latter needle it will passwith its thread through the same, asillustrated in Figs. 23, 211, and 25, and when the upper needle is atits lowest point again, and while resting there for then'nder needle toenter its loop, as shown in Fig. 21, a quarter-turn of the disk when itsdriving-stud is diametrically opposite the position shown in Figs. 9 and10 returns thelooper to its former position, as shown in Fig. 21. Thustheinterlacing of the threads through and over the edge of thebutton-hole is accomplished.

It is very essential to the success of the looping operationsjustdescribed that the perforating-needle be placed at one side of thecenter of the needle-bar, so that the looper which moves about the axisof the needle-bar shall move eccentrically to the needle, otherwise itwould have to move farther to carry its loop into and spread it acrossthe path of the needle, so that the needle would pass through it, andconsequently would fail to do so in timethat is, before the needle haddescended through the goods being stitched. To properly space thestitches thus formed around the button-hole to give to it a suit-ableform and edge finish is the function of the feeding devices, which Iwill now describe, first calling attention to the form of thebuttonwhole illustrated in Fig. 26 and to the fact that three differentspeeds are required in the movement of the cloth-clamp to accomplish theproper spacing of the stitches-namely, the fastest speed on the curvesZ, t-he slowest speed on the straight parts m, and a quicker speedaround the eye fn. The devices ernployed for feeding the material Whilebeing stitched are the clamp D (shown in perspective in Fig. 1,) theslottedwork-plate D', upon which the clamp travels and which is shown inFig. 15, the grooved ratchet-wheel D2,Which underlies the Work-plate andis shown in Figs. 16 and 17, and a pawl mechanism D3, comprising severalparts, by which the feed-wheel D2 is intermittently rotated.

Afeeding mechanism comprising a clamp, a slotted workplate, and anunderlying grooved wheel is not new; andthe novelty of my presentinvention in respect to these parts consists in certain details ofconstruction and modes of operation which l will point out and describe.

The stitching of the peculiar form of but ton-hole which my machinemakes commences at the point Z. The tirst movement of the clamp D fromthe position in which it is shown is directly forward, so as to carryits pin D4 into the center of the part a or the slot D5 of the plate andinto a corresponding position in the groove D6 of the underlyingfeed-wheel- Then the pin of the clamp is thus located through the actionof the cutting devices, as before explained, then the movement of vwheelD2 commences, and its slide DT is moved into contact With the pin,thereby turning the clamp upon a line of curvature corresponding to thecurve of the groove D5 in the part marked a while t-he edge of the baseof the clamp bears against the spring-roll DS, projecting above theworkplate, as shown in Fig. 1, and this movement continuing during aquarter-turn of the feedwheel produces the curved line of stitches Z onthe button-hole. The clamp pin then reaches the part b of the slot D5 inthe workpllate, Fig. 15. At this point slide D7 ot the feed-Wheel, Fig.16, which has carried the clamp to this position, retreats into therecess D, specially adapted to receive it only in the hub of themachine-bed,'around which the feed-Wheel revolves far enough to allowits outer end to pass freely by the clamp-pin. Then, as the wheelcontinues to revolve, its heart-shaped groove, operating in conjunctionwith the part bof the slot in' the workplate, acts upon the clamp-pinduring a halfrevolutiou of the feed-wheel, and thereby moves the clamplineally into the part c of the slot in the Work-plate, thus producingthe line of switches m on one of the straight sides of the button-hole.Now the slide D1o of the feed-wheel engages the clamp-pin and carries ita half-revolution of the vWheel and through the circular part c of theslot in the work-plate when the pin reaches part CZ of said slot, andslide D10 retreats into its special recess D11 in the hub and passes thepin. Again, the groove in the wheel and the straight part d in the slotin the plate combine duringahalf-revolution of the Wheel to force theclamp backward lineally in the direction indicated by the arrow, andthus complete the spacing of the stitches on the remaining straight sideof the button-hole.

Next the slide D12 engages the clamp-pin and carries it forward during aquarter-revolution of the Wheel through parteJ of the Workplate slot,and forces it intothe position indicated in Fig. 16, t-hus completingthe curved stitching opposite Z and finishing the buttonhole. Slide D12,when the wheel is again turned, retreats into the special recess D13 inthe hub, and thus passes the pin. This cornpletes the description of themovements of the clamp in spacing the stitches around the button-hole,it having made but one revolution around its central button (Z, on theworkplate, while its actuating feed-wheel has made two revolutions.

Upon the under side of the feed-wheel are grooves and pivoted switches,as indicated in broken lines in Fig. 17, which serve to vary theintermittent rotary movement of the IOO IIO

wheel, causing it to move faster or slower, according to therequirements of the stitch ing on dlfercnt parts of the button-holeedge, as before referred to.

Referring to Fig. 7, it will be seen that a rock-shaft E is employed,upon the rear end of which is secured a siotted arm E. To this arm isadjustably connected an eccentric arm E2, which at its upper end ismounted upon and actuated by shaft B, as shown in Fig. S, and thisimparts a rocking motion to shaft E. Near the opposite end of the lattershaf t is secured thereon another arm E3, which is connected by aswivel-joint to an arm E4. A slotted arm is fitted to turn about the hubE, and to arm arm E1 is attached by pin E7, which projects through theslotted arm and into the groove in the feed wheel, and is free to movein said slot as the groove may carry it. To the outer end of arm E5 isattached the pawl-earriei-ES, whose pawls engage the teeth on theperiphery of the 'feed-wheel. Then shaft B is revolved, shaft E isrocked by arm E2, and such roeking movement is communicated through armsE3 and El to arm E5, which, through its pawlcarrier and pawls ES,imparts motion to the feed-wheel, and this movement of the feedwheel isvaried in extent according to the position of the stud ET in the slet ofarm E5, the movement being greater when the stud is nearer to and lesswhen the stud is farther from the hub E, about which said arm rocks,said variable positions of the stud ET in slot being governed bythe formof the grooves which the stud travels in on the under side of thefeed-wheel as the latter turns around. Then a button-hole is in positionand ready to commence stitching the same, as before described, the innerand upper end of stud E7 will stand in the under groove of the feedwheel, as indicated by dotted lines Efin Fig. 17. As the wheel is causedto move around step by step by the means just described and in thedirection of the arrow, the first quarterturn of the wheel will berapid, the power heing applied near the fulcrum of the pawl-arm or leverE5, and consequently causing the pawls to sweep over more teeth and tocarry the wheel farther around when they move forward; but when thewheel has progressed so far as to carry the switch EW past the stud E7and to bring the part f of the groove around to the stud, being onequarter-turn of the wheel, then stud E will be carried by the groovefarther out from the central hub on which the pawl-arln turns, andcolisequently during the next half-revolution of the wheel it willprogress slower as the pawls are given less sweep over the teeth andmove the wheel to less extent. Atthe end of this halfrevolution of thewheel part g of the groove will have come around to the stud and thebutton-hole will have been stitched from the starting-point along oneside of the eyelet end of the hole. New the part g of the groove carriesthe stud E7 a little nearer to the hub, and consequently quickens themovelnent of the wheel bygving it a longer throw at each vibration ofthe rock-shaft. This speed is kept up during a half-revolution of thewheel, which carries switch E11 past the stud E7, and thereby closes thegroove at g and opens switch El" by contact of the switches with thestud in passing, bringing partf around tothe stud, this half-revolutioncompleting the feeding for the stitching around the eyelet part of thebutton-hole. Next the speed is slowed down again, while 'the groovebetween f and (j is turned past the stud, completing the last straightside of the button-hole and a halfrevolution of the wheel, and then, theswitch E having closed the outer1 groove at g, the line from g to Efwill travel past the stud at a more rapid speed during the nextquarter-turn of the wheel, thus completing the second full revolutionot' the wheel and the spacing of the stitches around the button-hole.The arm of the usual spreade1lever D1A1 of the clamp is extended andformed and arranged to come in contact with a pin D1, set up in thework-plate, as shown in Fig. 2, moves around the lever D14 will wipeagainst and past the pin Dit", and thus automatically produce therequisitelateral. expansion of the jaws of the clamp, whose arms bearagainst said cam in the usual manner, thus saving time and relieving theoperatorof that duty.

The usual thread-guides, take-up, tension devices, the., are of courseemployedin this machine; but being old and weltlinown it is not deemednecessary to describe such common devices in detail. A slot c is madethrough the plate and through a portion of the central button d', whichis secured to the central part of the work-plate and serves the usualpurpose of guiding the clamp in relation to the needles, the two partsof the plates being of course secured to the bed. This slot c is made toallow the cutter to come up through the plate within the space inelosedby the hub, around which the feed-Wheel turns and meet the overhangingcutter-block. Slot a at the same time aids in guiding and properlylocating the outer end of the clamp in relation to the central buttonand the cutter and block.

The slot or opening D5 in the worieplate from b to a and from d to a isnot a true circle, but to a small degree gradually approaches thecentral button d from a in both directions; but part c of said slot fromZ; to d a true circle around the central button ll. In the upper face ofthe underlying wheel the groove which actuates the clamp through its pinD" and in conjunction with slot D5 of the work-plate is heart-shaped oreccentric; but its point of greatest distance from the center or axis ofthe wheel is reduced to the are of a true circle between slides D12 andD?, and I have found this modilication of the groove quite an essentialfeature in my present invention, it being necessary to make some alsothat when the clampA IIO lowance in the movement of the wheel for theclamp to get into its true position before the wheel acts upon it, andalso to allow a stitch or two to be taken at the commencement andconclusion of the stitching without moving the clamp to bar and finishthe button-hole at the point l; and the two slides D12 and D7 are spacedin the wheel and groove with special reference to this purpose, and withthe same end in view the portion of the groove embraced between them ismade the arc of a true circle, so as to be inoperative on the clamp-pin,while slide D7 is moving into position to engage the same.

The machine is hung upon the usual stands S and S', so as to be readilyturned over to get at the under side of the same, as shown in Fig-7; butin this construction and arrangement the driving shaft bearing A12 isextended and formed to serve as the journal in stud S, on which themachine is turned, thus turning the machine about the axis of thedriving-sh aft, and thereby avoiding the necessity hitherto existing inthis class of machines of throwing olf the driving-belt Whenever theAmachine was thus turned over.

I claiml. A button -holc-stitching machine embodying the followingcombination of mechanisms, namely: a feed 1n ech anism comprising atraveling clamp D, which presents the button-hole edge to the stitchingdevices in the manner described, a stop mechanism by which the feedingand stitching operations are automatically suspended while thebutton-hole is being cut in the material held in the clamp and after thecutting is" accomplished are again set in motion, mechanism by which theclamp is automatically withdrawn from tho actuating-wheel to the properposition relatively to the cutting devices to have the button-hole cutin the material held therein and after such cutting is replaced upon itsactuating-wheel, mechanism by which the buttonhole is automatically outin the material held in the clamp While the latter is so withdrawn, andan overedge-stitching mechanism by which the button-hole is finished inthe manner described, all co-operating to automatically cnt and stitch abutton-hole, substantially as specified.

2. A button-hole--stitching machine em-l bodying the followingcombination of mechanisms, namely: an overedge-stitching mechanism, afeeding mechanism comprising a traveling clamp D, a locking mechanismoperated by the clamp D to stop the stitching and feedingv operationsWhile the cutting mechanism is in operation, and a cutting mechanismwhich automatically cuts the button-hole in the material held in theclamp and acts upon the locking devices to release the stitching andfeeding mechanism therefrom after the button-hole is out, allsubstantially as specified.

3. The combination of the drivin g-shaft A11, supported in a swivelbearing, worm A10,

formed thereon, worm-gear A4, mounted on a stud A5, eccentric .arm A27,actuated by the worm-gear, block A19, centered at one end in andsupporting the end of shaft A11 and arranged to rock on stud A14, springA21, arranged to bear forcibly against the opposite end of the blockwhen the worm and gear are engaged, leverA13, turning on stud A14 andcarrying a pawl A16, which engages a pin A18 in the block, pawl A24,pivoted to the bed of the machine and also engaging pin A12, and thecutting devices comprising levers A2 and A7, all coactingsothat themovement of lever A13, as described, causes the cutting devices to beactuated during one revolution of gear A4 and to be automaticallystopped, as specilied.

et. In combination with mechanism for cutting and stitchingbutton-holes, a drivingshaft mounted in a swivel-bearing, a wormthereon, an actuating worm-gear, and means whereby the worm and gear areengaged and disengaged while the shaft is rotating, as and for thepurposes specified. i

5. In combination with the bed and stitchforming mechanism of abut-ton-hole-stitching machine, a cutting mechanism comprising a leverA2, pivoted above the machine-bed, a lever A7, pivoted below the bed,one lever carrying a cutter and the other moving a cutter-block andbeing arranged to bring the cutter and block into contact with eachother through openings in the bed, work-plate, and

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clamp, a lever A26, pi'voted below the bed and arranged to be actuatedby lever A7 and to impart movement to clamp D, and clamp D, arranged tobe moved lineally on the workplate, whereby the clamp is automaticallydrawn back and displaced relatively to its actuating devices, thebutton-hole cut in the material held therein, and the clamp replaced onthe Work-plate ready for the stitching operations to commence, asspecified.

G. The automat-ic button-hole-spreading device consisting of thelong-armed spreadercain D14, which forms part of the clamp, and a pinD15, fixed in the work-plate or bed and arranged to project upward intothe path of arm D11, so that as the vclamp is fed around upon thework-plate the arm will come into contact with the pin and thereby causecam D14 to turn between the arms of the clampjaws, which bear againstit, and thus spread the jaws and open the button -hole held therein.

7. The combination of clamp D, provided with an overhanging arm D16, thework-plate having thel slot b therein, the clamp-moving lever A26,slotted and upturned through slot b in the work-plate to receive saidarm, mechanism, substantially as described, for respectively actuatingsaid clamp and lever, and the pivoted latch D17, arranged to be actuatedby the clamp-base to close the outward -passage from the slot in leverA2 in advance of the arrival of vthe clamp-arm therein, as and for thepurposes specified.

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S. In combination with the stitch-forming and cutting devices, thetraveling` clamp D, provided with an overhanging arm D111, arranged toengage lever A2, the lever A9, and lever a1, whereby the clamp isautomatically drawn back to cut the button-hole in the material heldtherein and moved forward again to stitch the same, as specified 9. Thecombii'lation, with the stitch-forming and feeding devices of abutton-hole sewingmachine, of the stop-motion devices comprising thecombination of clamp D, having the described movements imparted to it,the slide B15, lever 31:1, lever B12, rock-shaft l, arms B6 and D,clutch B1, and spring' 137, whereby the movements of the feeding andstitching devices are automatically stopped upon the completion of thestitching of a button-hole, as specified.

10. rlhe combination, with the cutting, stitch-forming, and feedingdevices, of lever A2, actuated substantially as described, and providedwith an arm 1311, lever 312, arranged to be depressed by said arm,rockshaft B, turned by lever B12, arms B" and BS,

attached tothe rock-shaft, and pulleys B and 132, arranged to co-operateas described, whereby the stitching and feeding devices areautomatically set in motion upon the completion of the cutting of thebutton-hole in the material held in the clamp and the proper location ofthe same on the work-plate, as specilied.

ll. In abutton-hole-stitching machine, the combination of mechanism forcutting` the button-hele, mechanism comprising a traveling clamp D forfeeding the button-hole, mechanism for stitching thevbutton-hole, andintermediate locking and unlocking devices, wherebyboth the feedingandstitching mechanisms are held idle while the button-hole is being eutand are automatically released by the action of the cutting devices andset in motion after thebutton-hole is cut, all substantially asspecified.

l2. The combination, with stitch-forming mechanism, of the clamp D, theslotted workplate D', the underlying feed-wheel D?, and suitablemechanism for rotating the same, as described, the wheel being groovedand provided with slides D10 DT D12 and adapted to turn about a hubprovided with recesses D D11 D13 and to impart, in conjunction with theslotted work-plate, the described movements to the clamp, as specified.

13. In combination with stitch forming mechanism, the feed-wheel D2,having an eccentric groove cut therein, and slides D1"2 and DT,arrangedto project into said groove, and having that portion of thegroove which is between said slides formed on the are of a true circlewhose center is the axis of rotation of the wheel, substantially as andfor the purposes specified.

l-l. In combination with the stitch-forming and cutting devices, clampD, provided with a pin D4, the work-plate D', slotted, as described,andthe underlying feed-wheel D?, provided with a groove and slides, asspeeilied, and having its groove D" opened or widened between its slidesl.)T and D12, thereby permitting the clamp-pin to be drawn into slot dof the work-plate bythe cutting mechanism, as and for the purposespecified.

l5. The variable-feed mechanism comprisingthe combination of the groovedfeed-wheel D?, provided with switches E10 and E11, by which theconnected grooves in that side of thewheel are automaticallyopened andclosed, the slotted lever E5, arranged to turn about the hub, which alsoserves as the axis of the wheel, and carrying pawls that engage theperipheral teeth on the wheel, lever E1, stud E7, lined in and extendingfrom lever E'1 Ythrough the slot in lever Ei into the groove in thefecd-wheel,and by contact with switches E111 and E11 as they pass bycauses them to open and close said groove, swivel-lever E3, secured atone end to the rock-shaft E and at the other to lever E1, and mechanismfor rocking said shaft, whereby the feed-wheel is moved at differentrates of speed, according to the required spacing of the stitches ondifferent portions of the button-hole, as specified.

1U. In combination with suitable actuating mechanism therefor, thefeed-wheel D2, provided with grooves and switches for opening andclosing the grooves, and devices connecting said grooves with theactuating mechanism, whereby said mechanism in its operation upon thewheel will be controlled and varied, substantially as described.

17. In combination with the traveling clamp D ot' abutton-hole-stitching machine, a grooved feed-wheel provided withperipheral teeth, a pawl-earrying lever E, whose pawls engage saidteeth, and an actuating-lever E1, arranged to slide on the pawl-levcrand carrying a stud E7, projecting into the groove of the feed-wheel,whereby said groove automatically governs the backward throw ol' thepawls in renewing their hold upon the teeth and accordingly varies andregulates the forward movement of the wheel, as specified.

1S. In combination, an ovcredge-stitching mechanism, a traveling clamp Dand means for actuating the same, a button d', around which the clamprotates, and a guiding-slot D5, extending around button d and throughwhich the clamp is actuated, the slot being composed of an ellipticalpart a, a linealpart lOO IIO

b, an arc of a circle c, and a lineal part d,

whereby the clamp is so guided that it presents thc work held therein tothe stitching devices, to be finished thereby in the manner and formspecified.

lf). The combination, in a button-hole sewing-machine, of astitch-forming mechanism, a traveling clamp l), mechanism for actuatingthe clamp, and a werk-plate secured to the bed in two parts, arrangedone within the other, with an openingor groove D5 between, composed ofan elliptical part a, a lineal part li), an arc of a circle c, and alineal part d,

through which the clamp is operated and guided, as and for the purposesspecified.

20. In a button-hole sewing-machine, the combination of a stitch-formingmechanism, a cutting mechanism, a traveling clamp D, with meansforactuating the same, and a work-plate in two parts secured to the bed,the inner plate being provided with a button d', and having a slot c'cut through the inner plate and button, a slot d cut through the edge ofthe curve of the outer plate, and a slot b cut through the outer plate,all said slots being in a line radial to the central button CZ, as andfor the purposes specified.

21. In combination, the non-perforating needle C10, arranged below themachine-bed, and means for actuating the same, needle-bar C, arrangedabove the machine-bed, and means for actuating the same, theperforating-needle C7, eccentrically inserted in bar C, sleeve C12,arranged to have a rotative reciprocating movement about the axis ofsaid bar, and looper O13, secured to and moved by and with said sleeve,whereby the upper thread is passed down through and the under thread iscarried upward and interlaced therewith over the edge of thebutton-hole, as specified.

22. In combination, the rotary disk C3 and means for revolving the same,needle-bar C, connected by a link C4 with said disk, a slotted swingingarm C1, hung on a fixed pivot and moved by the stud connecting link C4with the disk, link G15, jointed to arm C16, and arm C14,

secured to sleeve C12 andvpivotally connected with link C15, wherebytimely movements are imparted to looper C13, as and for the purposesspecified.

23. The needle mechanism consisting of the rotary shaft B above thework-plate, the vertically-reciprocating needle-bar C, carrying aperforating-needle and actuated by said shaft, the looper C13, movingabout the axis ofv said needle-bar, the rock-shaft Cbelow the bed, andconnecting devices between said shafts, whereby shaft C2 is rocked, andarm C8, secured to the rock-shaft and carrying a non-perforating needle,the shaft C2 being oblique to both a vertical and horizontal planethrough the axis of shaft B, by which arrangementa peculiar movement isgiven to the lower needle relatively to the movement of the upperneedle, as and for the purposes specified.

24. The combination of the supportingstands S and S', upon which themachine is mounted soas to turn back, as described, and the extendedswivel-bearing A12, adapted and arranged to serve as the journal of themachine in stand S, whereby the machine is turned about the axis of thedriving-shaft A10 without removing the driving-belt, as specified.

JOHN XV. LUFKIN.

Witnesses:

EUGENE IIUMPHREY, CLARA L. POWER.

